There Is Baby Dragon And Cyborg Manifesto In Gucci. Are You Confused?
Alessandro Michele is an interesting creator. He gave Gucci a powerful identity, created from the designer’s archives but undeniably shaped and consolidated from his vision of fashion. Up until now he had been circulating through the castles of his imagination, usually kept in the most frequented rooms: halls, gardens, rooms, among rugs, jewelry boxes, clothing and memory chests, works of art, grandmother legacies , things.
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But now the Gucci Squad has arrived bolder. He entered the library and ran from there to the basement where, in a controlled environment, they entered the vibe of strange experiences. Models holding replicas of their own heads , three-eyed girls, and a newborn dragon pet (the work of Makinarium special effects studio ) are among the results of this experiment, which, despite the bizarre elements, has an intellectual basis: the cyborg manifesto , an interesting and controversial text by biologist and philosopher Donna Haraway of 1984.
The cyborg is a creature of a post-gender world ,” explains Donna, in total harmony with what Alessandro has done in the Italian house. From his first collection, the idea of a clothing that challenged certain barriers was present. And with it, the possibility of another world , of another social relation. No wonder, before coming to the reflection of this new collection, Gucci went to space , embraced ETs, perhaps in search of freer models from other civilizations. An intergalactic journey of discovery.
Cyborg in the concept of Donna, that is to say, is not exactly a Robocop. “My myth of the cyborg means transgressed boundaries, powerful mergers and dangerous possibilities,” continues the author in another section. Donna text must be read and understood in its context: f wing politics, feminism, socialism. It questions the identities and defends ruptures in this sense, intuiting that they imprison us, in different ways.
One also asks about the limits between human and machine , between physicaland non-physical , for example. “The image of the cyborg may suggest a way out of the labyrinth of dualisms through which we have explained our bodies and our instruments to ourselves. It is a dream not of a common language but of a powerful and heretical heteroglossia, “he says, referring to women , especially feminists , making a very interesting defense of the emancipatory power of the movements of black feminism .
In its release, Gucci goes further. Imagine hybrid bodies , invite to the playful creatures worthy of the books and the fantasy sagas of the cinema. “Gucci Cyborg is post-human: he has eyes on his hands, faun horns, dragon cubs and duplicate heads. He is a biologically indefinite and culturally aware creature . The last and extreme sign of a miscegenated identity in constant transformation. The symbol of an emancipatory possibility by which we can decide to become who we are. “
Let’s go to the clothes.
Beginning with the cinema, which, until today, gave us the best known images of futures and worlds in these terms. From Blade Runner to B horror movies like The Astro Zombies , in which a mad scientist tries to create superhumans from bits of people. The Balaclavas used by the film’s assassins appear at various times. In another, in a print, the title of the film Faster Pussycat Kill Kill , a cult of the exploitation genre starring the iconic Tura Satana , who plays the leader of a gang of gogo girls, reversing patterns of submission, strength and sensuality.
The question of the mutant and fragmented identity is in the remix present in each look, in each piece, something that Alessandro has also done from the beginning. Anyone who expects big differences in approach in this collection will be disappointed. The old style , the overlays, the exuberance of the accessories , the avalanche of details, the meticulous mining remain strong. More than showing something new as a proposal, the designer proposes a new perspective on what he has already done , that is, by explaining certain fundamentals, adding depth and making us look at his repertoire in another way.
Of course there are sacadinhas, like the clothes divided in half, Medical and Monster style , Frankenstein hipster . The styling plays over the clothes the dustpan covers used to protect the pieces, which can be seen in many ways, from a play with the dusty vibe to a provocation on many fashionistas to become hybrids of people and label. You must know some yourself.